Author Matthew Ryder

Mystified by a bizarre excitement I could barely control, I made my descent into Beijing for the second time this month. Although almost any American will surelyhave a great feeling of excitement and anticipation when landing in Beijing, China, my butterflies were peculiar and somewhat disconcerting as my excitement was due foremost to a feeling that I was returning home.

Emotionally tired, physically sore and mentally worn. I believe that here in the middle of the Taklamakan desert, in the oasis town of Dunhuang, I have finally found the time and space needed to write an article describing the fight in which I have now become entangled.